would you like to buy this beanie with scripture on it?

Happy New Year! I just got back from Molineros, where I celebrated the New Year with my first host family. The 1st and 2nd of January are also the Fiestas Patronales in Molineros, so New Years is a bigger deal there. I headed out from my site on the morning of the 31st to make it there in time for the evening’s festivities. Bus transportation in this country is always an experience, but not always the simplest, or most direct. Long story short – I can normally make it from my site to Molineros on two buses, but this time I ended up having to take 4.

The bus riding experience here can’t really be compared to anything in the States. Each bus has a driver and a cobrador. The cobradors lean out the front window yelling to people on the side of the road where the bus is going and convincing them, verbally, physically (if he shoves you on his bus, you have to pay right?!) and loudly to get on this bus and not the other one. The cobrador also helps old ladies, or pretty ladies, get on and off the bus, helps with big bags and children and is otherwise helpful. He also walks up and down the aisles collection bus fares. (I say he because every single cobrador, except for one, I have ever had in this country has been a man. I think it’s too dangerous for women.)

So those are the two main characters that come with which ever bus you take. But by no means are those the only characters. At each of the bigger desvio (junction) stops, vendedores (wandering vendors) get on and hawk their wares. So far in this country I have been offered – jicama, tortillas, strawberries, ice cream, hair clips, Gatorade, pistachios, flashlights, candied peanuts, power cords, dried coconut, a full chicken dinner, French fries, a dozen apples, the word of God on cards, posters, CDs, DVDs, books, coloring books, placards, tapestries, bracelets and book marks. I have been told of the benefits of eye drops, foot creams, cleansing teas, weight loss pills and memory enhancers. My future children might benefit from this collection of anatomy, language, geography, mathematics, grammar or history text books. It’s absolutely astounding the variety of things you can buy on a bus. It kind of defeats the purpose of taking the bus to go shopping. Stay on it long enough, and you might just be able to purchase everything you need without leaving your seat!

But I digress. So I made it to Molineros and was immediately thrown into the festivities. We went off to visit Conchita's aunt and then came back to a house full of people ready to make bread. So we made bread until it got dark, then went back to the aunt’s house and chatted more. We got back to the house at about 11:30 and from there the fireworks really got going. They had been going off all day, but as midnight approaches, more and more begin going off. I lit a couple but mostly let the children risk losing a limb…

The next day, the 1st, family and friends from San Sal showed up in droves and by noon the house was absolutely full of people. The day was spent chatting, making tamales, being serenaded by a wandering band and watching the mini-parade. In the evening was the mass to celebrate their Patron Saint, Dulce nombre de Jesus (the sweet name of Jesus). After the mass was the lighting of the fireworks that covered the tower that bared the image of the Patron Saint. After the fireworks was a dance. I ended up going and dancing until about 2:30 am.

The next day, the 2nd, I spent the morning just enjoying my time in Molineros before heading back to my site. Conchita made fresh bread and pulled it out of the oven, wrapped it up and put it in my backpack right as I was running to catch the bus. I also had tamales, so the whole way back to my site, I think I might have slightly bugged my bus companions with the smells coming from my bag. But hey, at least they were good smells and when I got back to my site, the bread was still warm!