photos!!!

the dinner I write about in the next post. The Banyan Tree for light reading, On Food and Cooking for urgent food questions, cell phone awaiting texts from my salvo boyfriend... just kidding...I swear! wine bottle candle holder for the inevitable power outages, water bottle for the all important hydration and the awesome (albiet half-eaten, sorry!) pizza.

some awesome bread that I made. yes it's braided! one is roasted garlic, sun-dried tomato and basil, and the other one is cinnamon sugar. I would have put raisins in the last one, but I didn't have any. Oh well, next time.

the beautiful cocina that I talk about. Thanks mom and dad!

an embarrassingly awful picture. but the only one I had to show how much Monkey has grown. She's definitely still the runt of the litter. We ran into one of her brothers on the street, and he's bigger than she.

caramel corn. "woooow, it's sticky!"

hanging up hammocks for all my guests to sleep on. We tried this one without any extra rope, just hooked the loops on the hammock into the hooks in the wall and we got the tautest hammock in the world! We were joking around that you could make hammock bunk beds that way. If a lot of friends (like more than 7) ever came to visit, we'll have to! (Actually, no, really bad idea. Because the hammock is so taut, there's really no give in it and as you can see no side protection. One roll and you're on the ground. About 5 feet down!)

this country is definitely helping me get over my bug "problem" but I'm sorry, there is no need for scorpions. Yes, it's dead. And I know I don't have the world's largest feet or anything, but...heeeey buddy!

this little guy was one of my favorites. I think I mentioned him in an earlier post, but here he is. Instead of a costume during the eco-parade, he just carried a plant. Awesome!

the desfile (parade) ecologica. most of the girls dressed up as fairies and princesses, but most of the guys got the animals. However, they looked like walking pinatas! (blogger won't let me put the ~ over the n... sorry!)

cooking in the campo

I have not felt this satisfied from a meal in a while. Actually, that’s a lie. Just last week the fajitas were pretty much amazing. But this meal was something different all together. Griddle top pizza with fresh tomatoes, and basil. So anyway, I have rediscovered my passion for cooking. Cooking has always been an important part of who I am - working in kitchens since I was 14 and going out to eat at awesome restaurants will do that to you. Living in Fain B senior year really solidified my love of good food, well prepared, and then shared with friends and family. And then I came to El Salvador. And things changed.

I guess I felt that I needed to fully immerse myself in the culture here to truly adapt and appreciate it. And that included food. Well, for two months in my training community and somewhat living with my host family here in SAS I ate like a Salvadoran. And for a while it was nice - new flavors, new vegetables and new cooking styles. But then it got old. Because honestly, who can eat greasy, salty carbs for more than 6 months? So now I'm ready to eat like I used to.

Since I’ve been living on my own, I have of course been cooking for myself, but I have kept it fairly simple – scrambled eggs with various veggies. Beans and rice with various veggies. Stir frys. And the occasional pupusa. They really are tasty, but I mostly eat them for the awesome coleslaw (curtido) that comes with them.

So I was eating what I wanted to eat, but not getting crazy. And then I visited Alicea. A good friend from college and a fellow PCV here in El Salvador, she and I have a similar love of good food done well. (Read her blog here.) And I was reintroduced to really good cooking. To familiar cooking done in unfamiliar ways, using unfamiliar spices and utensils. And I was inspired; encouraged to go out and get my cooking on! I am lucky to have access to a really good market as well as supermarket in San Miguel, but I, being my frugal self, have not splurged for the goodies that could make really awesome meals. Until now.

Just last week I had some fellow volunteers visit to help out with an event as well as enjoy our fiestas. (Kind of like “Celebrate Wherever” in the states where rides and food stands and music stages are set up in the park and people come to hang out. Kind of.) So I planned menus to feed everyone. And we rocked out fajitas, caramel corn, chef salads, deluxe oatmeal pancakes (with strawberries, coconut and almonds) and a baller chocolate cake. And it was beautiful!

I have had the gas cocina (stove, range thingy...) with plancha (griddle) since mom and dad came and bought it as a house warming gift, but sadly I hadn’t really “christened” it. Well, not anymore. My most recent creation is a griddle top pizza. I do have a toaster oven, but I didn’t feel like using it (my electricity bill shoots up when I use it…from 5 dollars to almost 7! (I know, you all who are paying real bills are playing the world’s smallest violin right now, but hey, that’s a big chunk of change for me!)

So as I read On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen (full of tasty tidbits about the history/chemistry of beer, cookies, pastas, sauces and everything else) my pizza dough was rising. When it had risen a bit, I kneaded in garlic, and herbs. Then I heated up the plancha and put on the dough. Turned it over once and then placed my cheese, tomatoes, broccoli, and basil on top. Didn’t get to fully melt the cheese, the griddle was too hot, but next time, I’ll time it all better. But a tasty result none the less.

So now I'm all gung-ho on the cooking and baking. Food has always been important to me, especially good, well executed meals, but I have remembered this passion and it is helping me focus. I can work hard during the day knowing that a tasty, comforting meal is waiting for me - though I have to prepare it first. But I enjoy the cooking and preparing almost as much as the eating. I would now like to share my cooking with my neighbors and friends here. One of the goals of Peace Corps is an exchange of American culture to the host country. And as another one of my posts mentions, it’s kind of hard to define American culture. However, I think one of our biggest offerings is the incredible diversity of awesome food that we have. So maybe I’ll start cooking classes, or just keep making great food and hope the smells waft out and convince people to stop on by.

homesickness

Do you get homesick? I’m often asked that in Spanish and English by people here and friends and family back in the states. I have to admit (sorry mom and dad!) that: no, not really. Let me be clear. While I miss my family and friends and think about them often, I don’t get homesick. Or not normally.
I have been living away from home since I was 14, only spending summers and vacations with my parents. Also, home, has been a fairly fluid thing for me, (living in 6 different states over 22 years does that to you) so homesickness is not really something I’ve had to deal with here. However, I have realized that there are definitely things about the states that I have come to appreciate more fully be being away from them. So if I’m homesick for anything, it’s the following things. (Family and friends are of course an unspoken addition to this list.)

Anonymity. I don’t like to be in front of lots of people. I don’t think of myself as an attention seeker. I’d rather be in the back of the crowd observing everyone else. In this country I am a spectacle. And I don’t like it. Sometimes I wish that I could just be one of the crowd.
Example: Here in El Salvador lots of businesses hire MCs and DJs to hawk their products outside of their stores with loud speakers, music and running commentary of the goods or specials. But often it turns into commentary of the people on the street. If they are interesting enough to comment about. Which usually includes me. Yesterday walking through the parking lot of MetroCentro (the mall here in San Miguel that I probably talk about way to often) and around San Miguel I got called out by no fewer than three of these people. *person rattling off in Spanish suddenly switches to broken English* “hello my American friend and welcome to Metro Centro” or “hello chelita (little light – skin color – one), buy something?” And everyone around can hear and can identify me as the object or subject of the message. I wish I could just be anonymous. In the states, I am. And I miss it.

Quickness/efficiency. While I do enjoy the more laid back attitude here and I sometimes become overwhelmed and frustrated by the speed of things back in the states, there is definitely something to be said for speed. I have been without water for a week now and it will in all likelihood be at least 3 more days before we get water. During Hurricane Agatha that came through May 28th-30th, the river that runs through our town flooded and with it took some houses. In addition, mud and water got into the pumping room and equipment of our water system. Which means the whole system had to be flushed and cleaned out. Or something like that. Anyway, what it has meant for me is that since Sunday the 30th I have had no water. Luckily I have plenty of water to drink but during the rains that weekend, my clothes got pretty damp and I already had about a weeks worth of dirty clothes. Combine that with more dirty clothes, fewer showers as I try to save what little water I have and it means that Carol is extra dirty and smelly. Not fun. Now some people in SAS have pumps and wells. They have been the lucky ones. The rest of us have had to go to those people’s houses (I finally did some laundry today at a neighbor’s house), or go to the river, or haul water from somewhere else or buy it. Now I realize that for some Peace Corps volunteers, or maybe people in the states even, this is a reality and therefore I shouldn’t be complaining. And I’m trying not too. What I am commenting on however, is that there is a solution to this problem and it has taken more than a week to fix. I think people in the states would be up in arms on day number 2 or 3. And something would have happened a lot faster. But that is not the case here. And I wish it were.

Peace and quiet. The level of noise in this country is unbelievable. Whether it’s from the blasting radios, the blaring car horns, the noisy animals and children, the rumble of cars and buses, or the fiesta going on down the street, there is all told very little quiet in this country. Sure you can go out to the country and experience a little more peace and quiet, but you still get animals, and radios, and cars. In the states, even in cities, your houses are well insulated and you can call the police on your neighbors if they get too loud and there are rules for how loud buses and cars can be. No such luck here. I forget who suggested that I call the cops on my neighbors. But I almost laughed in their face. Sorry. Not gonna work here.

Littering is a quasi sin. I think in the states most people have it ingrained in their mind that you just don’t litter. You wait until you find a trash can and you throw your trash away. Now, I understand that in this country, disposable products are a new phenomenon and therefore people that litter are just doing so out of habit, when “trash” was all organic. Fast food came wrapped in corn husks, or banana leaves, or paper. But not now. And it’s tough to change habits. I know. But it still bugs me how nonchalantly mother and child, student and professor, vendor and shopper will throw their trash on the ground, out the window of a bus or in a ravine. Yesterday on the bus I finally did what I’ve been working up the nerve to do. The women in front of me moved to throw her trash out the window and I stuck my hand out and grabbed the trash from her hand. The woman turned around and she and her grandson were very surprised. I just looked at both of them, shook my head and put the trash in my purse to throw away when I got off the bus. Now, I understand that trashcans are not common place in this country, but they do exist. You just have to want to carry your garbage around in your pocket or purse until you find one. And in the states I think for most people this is the norm. And I miss that.

So, it probably looks like I’ve compiled a list of “reasons why I’m not happy here”. And that’s not the case. There are plenty of things that I like about being here, it’s just that every once and a while I’m reminded about good things in the states as well.

culture, what culture?

I think it was Mr. Kim in Global Studies, freshman year at Fountain Valley, who said that culture is "the way we make sense of the world." I think there might have been more to the definition, but at this point, I've forgotten it. I've had some time lately to reflect on culture, specifically my culture and how it affects my experience here in El Salvador.

I think that it's quite common for Americans to think that we don't really have one culture, because, well, we don't. So that's why I say my culture. (Even though it sounds incredibly self-centered.) But, that doesn't mean that my culture has nothing in common with your culture. In fact, I think that thats part of the phenomenon of culture in the States-and probably other countries too-we are all mixing together and picking up cultural traits of others. Sure, there are plenty of differences in our cultures, but I also think there are some common threads. The following are some of the threads that I think might be present in most/some/all people in the States (Or maybe it's just me. Or my family...)

1) We are loud, especially in public places. Get some gringos on a bus and we will probably be the only ones laughing away, telling stories and being ridiculous. I don't know whether it's just the fact that we haven't seen each other in a while, so we just want to share stories and no stinkin' bus is gonna stop us, or what. But we talk. A lot. And loudly. I don't know if it's from a desire to be heard and acknowledged or just that we automatically talk at "11". Of course if we need to, we turn it down (and on buses, you really should be as inconspicuous as possible, meaning not shouting out in English how last night you saw the hugest freakin'-insert bug, animal or creature here-that you've ever seen in your life.) But all in all, gringos are loud.

2) Related to the talking thing is the fact that, for me, if I'm hanging out with someone, and we aren't talking, it's awkward. I have a need to fill silence. (I think my fellow Americans can probably relate to this one?) Of course, some moments are fine for silence - during movies, or long car rides or if people are reading or thinking or contemplating life or enjoying the scenery. But, normally, sitting at home, a cafe or restaurant, or walking alongside someone, you chat. Because if you don't, it's awkward. But not here.
Those of you that read Alicea's blog probably read her musings on this as well, but there is no really good word for awkward in Spanish. There's incomodo (uncomfortable) and extraño (strange, weird) but besides, that.... no luck. So I don't know if the lack of a word for awkward means that people here don't feel it, or because they don't feel it, they never needed a word for it, but it's weird. What I would consider excruciating silence doesn't seem to phase people here. Maybe it's related to the slower pace of life, or just the fact that there isn't much to talk about. If you do try and chit chat with someone, it's always about the weather. Always. Because there's nothing else to talk about it.

3) I think there's nothing else to talk about because people here don't really read. I am a voracious reader. I have already read more the 60 books in my time here and I think my neighbors think I'm crazy. I will willingly spend a Saturday afternoon in my hammock just reading. I've finished two books in one day before. Now I know there are plenty of Americans that don't read, but I think that as a people we have a fear or distrust or discomfort with idle time. I think part of it stems from the idiom - idle hands are the devil's tools. This proverb has many variations and versions, but I think we have all heard it in some form. It means that you should always be doing something.
For me, my "go to" activity is reading. For other people, it's another hobby. And whether we use this saying or not, I think as Americans we agree with it. Someone just sitting around is not being productive, they are not achieving anything, they are not bettering themselves. I think that's partly why being here is such a shock sometimes. The pace of life is completely different - some days I will clean the house, wash clothes and and dishes and be done by 9 o'clock AM, and then have nothing to do the rest of the day. I try and keep busy, but some days there literally isn't anything to do. And that's okay. At least here. But my comfort zone is for me to always be doing something.

4) And last but not least, independence. I think this is a huge part of the American culture. By 18, most parents and children are at least subconsciously distancing one from the other, if not physically, then mentally and emotionally. Of course, in some families this physical separation or reduction of dependency comes earlier or later, but as a culture, 18 seems to be about that time. Also, whether you've participated in one or not, our culture is full of independent coming of age experiences - road trips, backpacking trips, slumber parties, going off to college, summer internships etc. You might not have experienced any of these yourself, but it was probably something you had thought about doing.
We value our independence and our ability to go where we want, when we want, with whomever we want. Here that is not the case. People are shocked when they find out I take the bus by myself from my site to San Salvador. Yeah it'd be best if someone went with me - but then we'd probably just sit there awkwardly not talking the whole time! :) but I've never found anyone who needs to go when I go. So I go by myself. I mean, the bus is full of other people, and I feel totally safe, but to my host mom, host grandma, neighbors, teachers and the lady at the post office, I should not be traveling by myself. But I have to. And also, I want to. I like being independent.

So while not everyone will identify with all of these, I think they might fit in to a larger "American" culture or set of norms. And if not, well, then it's just me!

the little things

I walked out of my house at 12 noon. Definitely not the best time to be traveling. The hot oven heat practically knocked me off my feet. But at least it was dry! (Extra bonus - my hair was wet from my recent shower.) So on I marched to the bus stop with my goal of iced coffee and air conditioning firmly in mind.

Now, I know that some people may have cultivated this idea that Peace Corps is without any comforts, and I for one had that idea in mind as well. (And some Peace Corps volunteers definitely still have that "few comforts" type experience.) But not me. Everyone's experience is different in the Peace Corps. (Differences are immense between continents, and countries, but even within this tiny country, the size of Massachusetts, the differences are still outstanding.)

My experience is made much more different by the fact that I am about 20-40 minutes from the 3rd largest city in El Salvador. (The time changes depending on whether you are in public transportation or private, how many people are getting on or off the bus, and what time of day it is.) So about this city. San Miguel - La Perla del Oriente (Pearl of the East, as they so humbly call their city) is a hot, hot, hot spot to be. And I don't just mean for all the awesome pupusas, great market deals, and cat calling locals. No, it's just a great place to be.

Some days I come for the market - nothing like buying all the food you could stuff your face with for a week for 5 dollars. Sometimes I splurge and buy a lot of fresh fruit and my total shoots up to $6.50. Booyah! Some days I come for the vet - Monkey needs her shots and I for sure ain't gonna give them to her. Some times it's just passing through on the way to meetings or get-togethers in other cities. And some days it's for Metro Centro.

Metro Centro is a mall. It's the only mall east of San Salvador and it's here in San Miguel. And it's air conditioned. And has cafes with wireless. I know, you are all promising yourself that you will never again feel sorry for me (as if you ever have, but I don't know why you would have.) So when I can't take the heat any more in my site, and I want to be able to sit in relative comfort while "internetting", I come to Metro Centro. And normally it's a calm, tranquil experience, where I sometimes run into students from my community, teachers from the schools I help out in or other volunteers. But not today.

Today is a game between Barcelona and Real Madrid - two Spanish futbol teams. (The crowd is currently going crazy because someone just scored. I can't see who.) So this cafe that I'm in right now, aside from having wireless, has a fairly large flat screen TV. While the women and children are out shopping, their husbands, brothers, boyfriends, sons etc. sit around and watch the game. A lot of times the women join in too, though. And it is packed right now. I can't even see the screen from where I'm sitting. The game started at 2 and I've been here since about 12:30. By 12:45 there was standing room only. Some people are just walking by and watching a little bit before they continue on to their shopping; some people look like they plan on standing for the whole game. Which, I guess at a stadium you might end up standing for a lot of the game anyway, because you're singing and cheering and participating, but here there isn't even an option of sitting. But it is air conditioned. And crowded.

But the good thing about there being something really interesting on TV is that Gringo TV is not so special today. People are giving me weird looks because they can see that I couldn't care less about the game. (I'm facing away from the TV, way in the back.) But they think that's normal for us Americans, what with our obsession for pig skin football.

So I'm here, enjoying a coffee, and wireless internet, while an enormous contingent of Salvadorans crowd around a TV for a futbol game. Gawsh it's good to be a Peace Corps Volunteer!

an attempt to save $0.20

I step out into the "crisp" San Salvador morning. I'm here for non-emergency medical reasons and the change of climate is refreshing. I spent the night in a hotel I don't frequent. Correction, I don't frequent the capital so all hotels are new. I know where I needed to go this morning, but not exactly how to get there by bus.

I was given directions - take the number 5, it stops by the pharmacy on the corner then continues on. After it makes a turn, get off. Then get on the 44. If I could just get myself on the 44 then I knew where I was going and I would be golden. Or so I thought. I've walked the distance before to where I thought the 5 would stop and I would have to get the 44. So I thought - I'll walk. It's not a bad walk and it saves me 20 cents. (I'm so stinking frugal it might actually be bad for my health.)

The walk is all downhill, which is not nice on the knees of course, but lets you see some of the city. (Granted through smog, but hey, everything can't be perfect!) I make it to where the 44 should be. I ask a friendly drug store security guard (armed of course) where I can agarrar (grab) the 44. He tells me at the corner and across the street. I walk to what could be considered a corner (the street bends) and see a 44 across the street so I cross and get on.

I'm pretty confident where I am and the bus is going in the right direction for where I need to go... sort of. As soon as we take off I expect the bus to turn, but no luck. We keep going. We pass the Presidential House and head on out to the luxury malls on the outside of town. I see 44s going the other direction on the road so I know that eventually we will turn around - but when? Also, as more and more people get off, I realize that I will awkwardly be the last one on and the driver will wonder why I didn't just get on the bus on the other side of the street. I also wonder if the driver ends at a terminal and has to take a mandated break. (Doubtful, but the thought convinces me I should get off.)

I verify that other 44s are still passing in the other direction, get off the one I'm on and agarrar one on the other side of the street. (After walking a discreet distance in the opposite direction in case the driver could see me - of course! Man, I worry too much what people think about me!) This 44 heads back the exact same way I came. As we approach where I got on the wrong 44 I pay attention to learn my mistake. All of sudden a number 5 appears in front of us (the bus I was supposed to take, but didn't to "save" 20 cents - so much for that!). We follow the bus around a series of turns and then end up in a mini terminal area where various bus lines meet up and passengers scramble on and off buses to head throughout town. The 5 and the 44 stop right next to each other. This is where I was supposed to come.

So now I know I'm on the right 44 and we head off to where I need to go. But honestly it's not anything that I'm kicking myself for. It happens too often for it to be anything other than an adventure. Literally every time I'm in the city I grab the wrong bus, or the right bus going in the wrong direction, or a similar bus going in a different direction. And each time I see a new part of the city. These bus adventures are a great way to see the city. It's faster than walking. And I consider it safer because I'm in a bus with other people instead of on the street walking alone. (Now granted, if someone unsavory gets on the bus, then I'm kind of trapped on the bus with the person, but that could happen on any bus, right or wrong.) So while I really would have liked to save those 20 cents, it was mostly well spent. Also, I'll always remember exactly how to catch the correct 44!

more photos

I'm on a photo kick. Enjoy it!

the nice thing about having parents come visit is an excuse to get pictures of the market. otherwise I just feel ridiculous.

more market

more market - where's waldo?
and still a good kid, looking both ways before I cross the street... :)

That's it for right now. I will try and put up more photos. Possibly a video of Monkey!